As the vibrant hues of fall begin to paint the city of Greenville, the humble apple takes center stage in the culinary scene, captivating both taste buds and memories. With the arrival of this beloved season, nothing beats the comfort of this crisp fruit, especially when transformed into exquisite desserts. This was perfectly illustrated during my recent visit to The Anchorage, a celebrated restaurant in the heart of Greenville, where I had the pleasure to meet pastry chef Sierra Axtell.
“It’s just a simple apple. Something that can be found at every grocery store in the fall,” Axtell said, her enthusiasm palpable. Yet, her desserts are anything but ordinary. As I gazed at her fall-inspired creation, I was excited to discover a poached apple, stuffed with rich handmade ricotta and white chocolate filling that was reminiscent of a delicious cannoli. To top it off, a sparkling apple jelly provided that sweet, nostalgic taste, bringing me back to childhood days filled with fruity candies.
The story of apples is quite interesting too. Did you know that their ancestral home is Kazakhstan? Its capital, Alma Ata, literally translates to “full of apples.” Around this time of year, the finest apples in our region are grown in and around Hendersonville, North Carolina. Thanks to the dry and crisp mountain air, these apples flourish with flavor and minimal pests, making them ideal for any chef’s kitchen.
Apples have an innate ability to evoke memories, and Chef Axtell understands this well. “My goal is to create a sense of wonderment through desserts, an optical illusion meant to evoke a memory,” she shared. “Any dessert with apples is going to have a sense of familiarity.” Her love for apples traces back to her childhood in Japan, where every outing was partnered with a fresh apple, making them a part of her cherished childhood memories.
While the apple dessert was a true delight, it was the sweet potato dacquoise, an impressive creation featuring egg whites and crushed nuts, that truly stole the show. Enrobed in a luscious sweet potato custard and adorned with pecan caramel croustillant, this dessert hit all the right notes. It was a reminder that the most remarkable tastes don’t always come from the expected; sometimes they spring from the humble sweet potato or even the ordinary apple.
In a dining culture where fine restaurants typically showcase extraordinary chocolate desserts, Axtell’s daring choices create an element of surprise. At a place like The Anchorage, diners anticipate a stunning chocolate extravaganza. Instead, Axtell combats that expectation with her magical sweet potato dessert that highlights the boundless potentials of underappreciated ingredients.
If you’re looking for a local dining experience that encapsulates seasonal flavors and nostalgic memories, The Anchorage should be a highlight on your culinary map. Located at 586 Perry Ave., this restaurant serves dinner from Tuesday through Saturday, ensuring that you can indulge in its innovative dishes well into the week.
As I left The Anchorage, I couldn’t help but feel exhilarated by the thought of how a simple fruit like the apple could inspire such creativity and wonder, with memories wrapped up in every bite. Whether you choose to start with the apple dessert or venture out of your comfort zone with something unexpected, Axtell’s approach proves that this quintessential fruit can indeed make magic happen in our kitchens and memories alike.
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